*Sigh* I wish that I could just get 1 machine in the mail that didn't need repair! 
My SG1, stepping in when my computer fails.
I really want to get this machine working. I have wanted a push-rod Alder for some time, and this machine seems to fit the Art Deco direction of my collection. Which typewriter gods do I need to make a sacrifice to, to get this machine working again?
Looking at the bright side, it could've been worse. Success to your surgery!
ReplyDeleteAgreed. Structurally it is at least unwarped. Let's see what I can manage.
DeleteIt sure is beautiful, and I like that Olympia as well.
ReplyDeleteIt absolutely is. And the Olympia was also another machine that was once a complete right-off. Miracles somes can happen with these machines.
DeleteWow! that's a classy looking Adler.
DeleteI couldn't resist it when I saw it. I was so excited to get it, and still am - despite the hiccups.
DeleteDamn Autocorrect. That was meant to be 'write-off'.
DeleteAw, crud. Hope you can get the Adler working 100% soon.
ReplyDeleteI'm pretty sure it - and it's case will live again.
DeleteWell, that just sucks. And a lovely machine, too. Good luck with the repairs.
ReplyDeleteThanks! I get the feeling I need it. But I'm sure you'll see a working Adler sometime in the bear future.
DeleteHoly hot dog! that sure is a nice Adler. Will you be looking for some kind of bonding agent to repair that cast part thingy? Should you succeed and I know you will, could you let me know as I have a simiiar need
ReplyDeleteI've been sussing something out that I think will work. I'll let you know.
DeleteI know nothing about typewriters, but I would reckon you'd be able to transplant a sawtoothed rail from another machine. Or is it possible to re-solder the broken one back on?
ReplyDeleteTo repair cast metal is a tricky thing for a welder and I don't think that soldwer will take. It has to do with attaining the correct temperature for the welding process takes place and I am led to believe that cast will melt at the high heat. To get another escapement rack from another machine would really not help because the escapement rack of any machine is purpose built to suit that machine only. I wish it were otherwise. What you have to bear in mind is not only the correct depth of the teeth on the rack but the angle of their cut plus the all important question of pitch. If it is 10 pitch(pica) then a replacement rack from another Favorit must be the same, not 12, 15, or 9,
Deleteit just won't work.
Here in this instance, as I mentioned to Scott before, I would be looking for some kind of heavy duty bonding agent which sets hard as a rock, perhaps drillable, (is there such a word?) as Scott may have to tap a thread through for the mounting screw on that Right side.
Sorry to be so long winded about this but it is very important to know these basic specifications as they can save a lot of wasted time in the future.
The dodgy repair job already present was a solder job. Solder is too brittle for such an application. Essentially the part will be absorbing the impact of every movement on the carriage. They would have had a better chance soldering it if they had have put a angled brace.
DeleteNow, I have to get rid of a big glob of useless solder, as well as prep the part.
John, I think I have found an agent I can use. And they even say it is drillable.
If I do need to drill, I'll just get a piece to fashion a brace and rivet it in. But I think I can avoid that. I don't want to compromise the metal.
Meh. Such a pretty machine.
ReplyDeleteIt indeed is...
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